Housing
The primary goal of caging is to ensure your bearded dragon's safety. As a general rule, provide as much space as possible.
At minimum:
- Length: at least twice your bearded dragon's length (nose to tail tip)
- Width: at least one full body length (nose to tail tip)
Your bearded dragon should be able to exercise and turn around completely without bumping into anything. Provide at least one hide, and multiple hiding places are recommended.
A full-grown bearded dragon can be up to 2 feet long, including the tail. Pets of this size need an enclosure at least 4 feet wide. Bearded dragons grow quickly, reaching nearly adult size in less than 6 months, so it is best to purchase an adult-sized enclosure from the beginning.
Choose an enclosure with a solid bottom made from materials that are easy to disinfect, such as:
- Glass
- Hard plastic
- Stainless steel
Cleaning matters.
- Remove uneaten food daily
- Thoroughly clean and disinfect at least weekly — wash with mild soap and water, then disinfect with ½ cup bleach to 1 gallon of water
- Rinse very well and dry completely before returning your bearded dragon
Commercial disinfectants may also be used (follow label directions). Examples include Betadine, Nolvasan, and Roccal.
Recommended bedding options include:
- Paper
- Indoor/outdoor carpeting or washable turf-style reptile carpet
Avoid:
- Corncob
- Wood shavings
- Sand
- Gravel
These substrates can be eaten and cause impaction, can harbor bacteria and fungi, and can irritate the eyes and respiratory system.
Enrichment
Props are important for well-being:
- Logs, rocks, and sturdy climbing areas
- Plants (real or artificial)
Use caution with small artificial plants because some dragons may mistake them for food and ingest them. Rearrange furnishings periodically to reduce boredom. Clean decorations regularly.
Lighting
Bearded dragons need both heat and UV light. A UVA/UVB light should be used 10 to 12 hours per day, year-round. Bearded dragons that do not receive adequate UV light can lose bone density and become prone to fractures (similar to osteoporosis in humans).
Natural sunlight is an excellent source when available and safe. Be aware that windows and glass filter out much of the beneficial UV. A safe option during warm weather is placing a screen-topped enclosure near an open window or providing supervised outdoor time with access to shade.
Use a UV light that emits both UVA and UVB year-round. These bulbs stop emitting adequate UV long before they burn out.
- Replace UVB bulbs at least every 6 months
- Date the bulb so you remember when to change it
- Fluorescent UV bulbs do not produce heat and must be used in addition to a heat source
- Place all lights so your bearded dragon cannot climb on them or touch them
You can learn more about UVB Light here.
Temperature
Providing warm and cool areas allows your bearded dragon to regulate body temperature. This is crucial because reptiles cannot regulate their temperature the way mammals do.
Basking area
- Under 6 months: 95–110°F
- Juveniles and adults: 90–100°F
Provide a warm side and a cooler side so your dragon can move as needed.
Feeding
Bearded dragons eat both insects and plant material in the wild. Their nutritional needs change significantly as they grow, so feeding and supplementation must be adjusted based on age.
Juvenile feeding (under 12 months)
Juvenile bearded dragons are growing rapidly and require daily feeding with a strong emphasis on protein and calcium.
Live Insects
- Feed daily, allowing your juvenile to eat as much as they want in 10 minutes
- Appropriate insects include dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae (calciworms), and crickets; mealworms or waxworms make occasional treats
- Insects must be no larger than the space between the eyes
- Remove uneaten crickets after feeding
Salad
- Offer a fresh salad daily, even if intake is minimal at first
- Include a mix of dark leafy greens and vegetables
- Chop into small pieces
Supplements for Juveniles
- Calcium without phosphorus and without vitamin D3: dust insects or salad 3–4 times weekly
- Calcium without phosphorus and with vitamin D3: dust 1 time weekly
This supplementation is critical for proper bone development and prevention of metabolic bone disease.
Adult feeding (12 months and older)
Adult bearded dragons eat fewer insects and more plant material. A healthy adult diet is mostly vegetables and greens.
Salad
- Offer a fresh salad daily
- Adults may eat up to 90 percent plant material
- Use a wide variety of dark leafy greens and vegetables
Live Insects
- Offer insects 2–3 times per week
- Use the same insect size rule (no larger than the space between the eyes)
Supplements for Adults
- Calcium without phosphorus and without vitamin D3: dust salad 3–4 times weekly
- Calcium without phosphorus and with vitamin D3: supplement 2 times per month
- Over-supplementation can be harmful, so follow this schedule closely.
Important Feeding Notes
- Never feed insects larger than the distance between your dragon's eyes
- Do not house juveniles with adults; adults may injure or eat smaller dragons
- Juveniles should show steady growth (approximately 2 inches per month)
- A dragon that is not growing, losing weight, or refusing food may be ill and should be examined by a veterinarian
Vegetables, Greens and Fruits
Provide a mix of at least three different vegetables and greens daily. Dark leafy greens provide more calcium than many other options — vary what you offer to balance vitamins and minerals. Chop smaller pieces for juveniles and larger pieces for adults; you can hang a whole leaf for enrichment and natural feeding behavior. Fruit can be offered occasionally in small amounts.
Greens & Veggies to try:
- Romaine, red leaf or green leaf lettuce, butter lettuce
- Mustard greens (including flowers), dandelion greens (including flowers)
- Watercress, escarole, collards, parsley, turnip greens, green onions
- Cabbage, Napa cabbage
- Squash, carrots, Brussels sprouts
- Mashed potato (raw or boiled), sweet potato
- Cauliflower, broccoli, green beans, yellow wax beans
- Bok choy, radish, red/green/yellow bell peppers, kale
Foods to Avoid or Limit
- Do not feed tofu routinely — it is high in fat and can interfere with calcium absorption
- Do not offer bird gravel
- Avoid feeding any single vegetable or fruit exclusively; variety matters
- In excess, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, cabbage, cauliflower, and bok choy can contribute to thyroid issues
- Spinach, rhubarb, beets, and chard are high in oxalic acid, can bind calcium, and may contribute to gout over time
Fruit Treats
- Watermelon
- Cucumber
- Papaya
- Cantaloupe
- Mango
- Banana
- Apple
- Berries
- Kiwi
Optional Additions
Some adults may eat pinkie mice. Pinkies provide trace minerals and vitamins not found in insects or plant material and do not need dusting. Feed no more than 2 times per month for adults.
Growth Monitoring
- Weigh and/or measure juveniles weekly
- Look for approximately a 2-inch increase in length each month
- If your bearded dragon is not growing, contact us
Water
Water should be available at all times in a low-sided bowl. Wash the container and provide fresh water daily. Some juvenile bearded dragons prefer to drink droplets sprayed onto enclosure surfaces.
Taking Your Bearded Dragon Outdoors
Outdoor time can be beneficial when done safely.
- Only take your bearded dragon out when temperatures are 70–90°F
- Provide shade and supervise closely
- Use a harness and leash to prevent escapes
- Protect from predators such as dogs, cats, and hawks
Common Medical Problems
Most diseases in bearded dragons result from:
- Dirty enclosures
- Poor diets or missing supplementation
- Cool temperatures
- Inadequate UV light
Many conditions develop slowly and can be missed until advanced. Learn what is normal for your bearded dragon, including appetite, activity, stool and urate appearance, and frequency of urination and defecation. If changes persist for 1–2 days or you notice additional symptoms, please call for an appointment.
This is not to be confused with Brumation, which is a natural occurrence in Bearded Dragons.
Emergency Signs and Symptoms:
- Bloody stool or urates
- Heavy breathing or panting
- Seizures
- Bloody discharges
- Lameness
Call us immediately if you notice any emergency signs.
Bathing
Soaking can support hydration and normal shedding. Warm water can also stimulate bowel movements. Use a separate tub for bathing — reptiles can carry salmonella, so avoid using the same tub used by people.
- Use lukewarm water
- Water level should be at body height but never over the head
- Never place a weak or sick bearded dragon in deep water
- Clean and rinse the tub before and after use
Color changes during bathing are common. Increased puffing or breathing may occur as your dragon adjusts to water temperature.
Salmonella
Any reptile may carry salmonella, even if healthy. Many reptiles shed more when stressed. Stress is commonly caused by improper habitat and poor diet. Assume your bearded dragon may shed salmonella at any time:
- Wash hands after handling your dragon or cleaning the enclosure
- Supervise children closely
- Use caution for immunocompromised individuals
- Teach older children the importance of handwashing after contact with reptiles or their habitat
Preventative Care
- Juveniles: twice-yearly exams
- Adults: yearly exams
Because signs of illness can be subtle, we recommend a yearly fecal test for intestinal parasites and a yearly blood test to evaluate calcium and phosphorus levels. This helps identify nutritional issues early and reduce the risk of metabolic bone disease.
Exotic pets require specialized care to help them live long, healthy, happy lives, and our team is here to provide that advice, guidance, and support. If you have questions about your unique pet’s care or need, schedule an appointment below or give us a call at (603) 882-0494
Additional Resources
The Bearded Dragon Manual — Philippe de Vosjoli, Robert Mailloux, Susan Donoghue, Roger Klingenberg, and Jerry Cole. Advanced Vivarium Systems, Inc. (2001). ISBN: 1-882770-59-5