Housing
Veiled chameleons are arboreal, meaning they live primarily in trees and elevated spaces. Adults typically range from 10–18 inches in length.
Enclosure type
Acceptable enclosure options include:
- Screen enclosures (excellent airflow, higher humidity management needed)
- Hybrid enclosures (balanced airflow and humidity retention)
- Glass enclosures (must have excellent ventilation)
Interior setup
Provide:
- Branches, cork bark, and vines for climbing
- Live plants such as pothos or philodendron for hiding and security
- Perches placed behind plants so the chameleon can retreat fully from view
A basking perch should be located approximately 10 inches below the heat source. Heat bulbs should never be closer than 6–8 inches from the top of the casque while basking.
Inadequate hiding areas cause stress, which can significantly impair immune function.
Substrate is not necessary and is often discouraged due to bacterial growth in moist environments. Recommended options:
- Bare bottom
- Paper towels
- Newspaper
These are easiest to clean and safest.
Chameleons are not social animals.
- Do not house chameleons together
- Males are especially aggressive and will fight
- Males can be identified by tarsal spurs on the hind legs
Hydration Methods
- Hand misting morning and evening
- Nighttime fogger or humidifier
- Dripper system during the day with a catch container underneath (empty and clean daily)
Chameleons drink water droplets, not standing water. They rarely use water bowls. Dry climbing surfaces during the day are critical to prevent bacterial and fungal foot infections.
Temperature
Suspend basking bulbs above the enclosure to prevent burns. Chameleons are excellent climbers and are at high risk for contact burns. Use a dimmer to fine-tune heat output.
- Ambient daytime temperature: low to mid-70s°F
- Basking spot: 80–85°F
- Nighttime drop: 55–60°F is safe
- Do not use red or colored night bulbs
Lighting
UVB is essential for calcium metabolism and bone health.
Recommended bulbs
- Arcadia 6% if placed directly on the screen
- Arcadia 12% linear if suspended approximately 6 inches above the enclosure
Bulb replacement
- Compact bulbs: every 3–6 months
- Linear bulbs: every 8–10 months
Replace bulbs on schedule regardless of visible light output. Always use reliable thermometers — infrared temperature guns are excellent for checking multiple zones.
You can learn more about UVB Lighting here
Humidity
- Daytime humidity: 40–50%
- Nighttime humidity: up to 80%
Feeding
Chameleons in the wild eat vegetation and invertebrates. The key to long-term health is a varied, balanced diet.
Vegetation
Offer leafy dark greens in a dish or hanging from a clip in the enclosure.
Invertebrates
Primary feeder insects include:
- Crickets
- Roaches
- Silkworms
- Mealworms
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Occasional worms
All insects must be gut loaded.
Gut Loading
Feed insects for 24 hours before offering:
- High-calcium greens (collard, mustard, endive)
- Vitamin A–rich vegetables (carrots, squash)
Commercial gut-load diets or enriched chicken feed may be used, but fresh produce is preferred.
Feed hatchlings/juveniles daily, as much as they will eat (typically until 6-9 months, depending on growth rate)
Feed adults every other day, offering 3-5 insects per feeding; insects should be no larger than the space between the eyes.
Supplements
- Calcium without D3: dust at every feeding
- Calcium with D3: every 2 weeks
- Vitamin A: Repashy Vitamin A supplement every 2 weeks
Proper supplementation is critical for preventing metabolic bone disease.
Handling
Chameleons stress easily and should be handled minimally.
- Provide constant access to hiding areas
- Avoid prolonged handling
- Sharp nails are normal and should not be trimmed
- "Coloring up" during handling indicates stress
Chameleons are best appreciated as display animals rather than hands-on pets.
Salmonella
All reptiles can carry salmonella, even when healthy.
- Always wash hands after handling
- Supervise children
- Use extra caution for immunocompromised individuals
Common Medical Problems
Most chameleon diseases result from:
- Dirty enclosures
- Poor diet or supplementation
- Inadequate temperatures
Diseases often develop slowly and may be advanced before signs are obvious. Learn what is normal for your chameleon:
- Appetite
- Activity level
- Feces and urates
- Overall appearance
Seek veterinary care if changes persist beyond 1–2 days.
Preventative Care
- Annual physical examination
- Routine fecal testing for parasites (recommended for all chameleons)
Early detection is key, as signs of illness can be subtle.
Additional Resources
Emergency Signs
Seek veterinary care immediately if your Chameleon has:
- Bloody feces or urates
- Heavy or labored breathing
- Seizures
- Bloody discharge
- Lameness