Housing
A proper enclosure is essential for your iguana's safety, health, and wellbeing. Iguanas need space, height, and structure to allow normal movement and climbing.
- The enclosure should be at least twice the length of the iguana (nose to tail)
- Width should be at least one full body length
- Adult iguanas can reach 4–5 feet long
- Large adult iguanas require a dedicated room or custom-built enclosure
Your iguana should be able to turn around easily, climb, bask, and retreat into hiding areas.
Use enclosures made from glass, hard plastic, or stainless steel. Avoid wooden enclosures, as they are difficult to disinfect.
Cleaning guidelines:
- Remove uneaten food daily
- Clean and disinfect the enclosure weekly
- Use mild soap and water, followed by a disinfectant solution (1 capful of bleach per 1 gallon of water)
- Rinse thoroughly and dry completely before returning your iguana
Recommended substrates:
- Paper
- Indoor/outdoor carpeting (washable turf)
If using carpeting, keep multiple pieces so one can be cleaned while another is in use, and always rinse and dry completely before placement.
Do not use:
- Corncob
- Wood shavings
- Sand
- Gravel
These materials can cause intestinal impaction, promote bacterial growth, and irritate the eyes and respiratory tract.
Provide:
- Logs and sturdy branches
- Platforms at varying heights
- Plants (real or artificial)
Rearrange furnishings periodically for enrichment. Clean all props regularly.
Iguanas should never be allowed to roam freely in the house. Risks include injury, animal attacks, chilling, and ingestion of unsafe objects.
Female iguanas require a dig box to prevent egg retention:
- Use deep topsoil
- Dig boxes may be up to 2 feet deep and longer and wider than the iguana — these are large areas to lay eggs
Lighting
UV lighting
- Use a UVA/UVB bulb (290–320 nm) for 10–12 hours daily
- Replace bulbs every 6 months, even if visible light remains
- UV bulbs do not produce heat and must be paired with a heat source
- Place lights so the iguana cannot touch or climb onto them
You can learn more about UVB Light here.
Natural sunlight is ideal when safe:
- Glass blocks UV rays
- Screened outdoor exposure or open-window access can help
- Never place a glass enclosure in direct sunlight — overheating can occur rapidly
Hot rocks are not recommended. They do not heat the enclosure evenly and can cause burns and dehydration.
Temperature
Iguanas are ectotherms, meaning they rely on their environment to regulate body temperature.
- Preferred optimal temperature zone (POTZ): 85–95°F
- Nighttime temperature: 80–85°F
- Basking area: 95–105°F
- Warm side: high 80s
- Cool areas: high 70s to low 80s
A temperature gradient allows your iguana to self-regulate.
Humidity
- Target humidity: 70%
- Use a hygrometer to monitor levels
- Avoid condensation on enclosure walls
Condensation indicates poor ventilation or excessive moisture. Excess moisture can lead to skin infections.
Feeding
A healthy diet is critical to preventing metabolic bone disease, kidney failure, and other common iguana illnesses. Iguanas are folivores (leaf-eaters); their diet should be entirely plant-based.
Juvenile feeding (under 12 months)
Juvenile bearded dragons are growing rapidly and require daily feeding with a strong emphasis on protein and calcium.
Feeding Basics
Wash all foods thoroughly
Rip greens into pieces slightly larger than the iguana's head
Hang whole leaves for enrichment and natural feeding behavior
Feeding Frequency
Juveniles: finely chopped food, twice daily
Adults: once daily, then every other day once over 3 feet long
Core Diet (Daily Staples)
Watercress, dandelion greens and flowers, escarole
Mustard greens and flowers, collards, turnip greens
Parsley, green onions, okra, yellow wax beans
Blackberries
Supplemental Foods (Rotate, Do Not Overfeed)
Apples, mango, kiwi, cantaloupe
Squash, carrots, sweet potatoes
Green beans, bell peppers
Bok choy, kale, broccoli, cauliflower (small amounts)
Foods to Limit or Avoid
No animal protein (meat, eggs, dairy, insects)
No tofu
No bird gravel
Limit high-oxalate foods (spinach, beets, chard)
Limit goitrogenic vegetables if fed frequently
Supplements
Vitamin D is best obtained through UVB exposure, not diet.
Juveniles
- Multivitamin: twice weekly
- Calcium (no phosphorus, no D3): 4–5 times weekly
Adults
- Multivitamin: once weekly
- Calcium (no phosphorus, no D3): 3–4 times week
Handling
Iguanas are long-lived and intelligent but powerful reptiles.
- With daily handling, juveniles can become calm pets
- Adult iguanas can cause serious injury with tails, claws, and bites
- Always handle with respect and caution
Water
Water should be available at all times in a low-sided bowl. Wash the container and provide fresh water daily. Mist enclosure 1 to 3 times per day to maintain humidity, Many iguanas drink water droplets from surfaces.
Taking Your Iguana Outdoors
Outdoor time can be beneficial when done safely.
- Only when temperatures are 70–95°F
- Always supervise
- Use a harness and leash
- Protect from predators
Common Medical Problems
Most iguana illnesses result from:
- Poor diet
- Inadequate UV exposure
- Improper temperature
- Dirty enclosures
- Reproductive issues from not laying eggs
Watch for:
- Appetite changes
- Weight loss
- Abnormal stool or urination
- Lethargy or weakness
Preventative Care
- Annual physical exam
- Twice-yearly fecal test
- Annual bloodwork (calcium and phosphorus levels)
Early detection significantly improves outcomes.
Salmonella
All reptiles may carry salmonella even when healthy.
- Wash hands after handling
- Supervise children closely
- Use extra caution with immunocompromised individuals
Questions?
Exotic pets require specialized care to help them live long, healthy, happy lives, and our team is here to provide that advice, guidance, and support. If you have questions about your unique pet’s care or need, schedule an appointment below or give us a call at (603) 882-0494