Caring for Your Pet Tortoise in Nashua, NH

Cold New England winters limit the tortoise species that can be kept successfully in captivity. Many large tortoise species are not appropriate pets in this region. Smaller species such as the spur-thigh tortoise (often sold as a "Greek" tortoise) and Hermann's tortoise are generally better choices.

Whenever possible, choose a captive-bred tortoise. Captive-bred animals are typically healthier, more adaptable to captivity, and less stressed than wild-caught tortoises.

With proper care, many tortoises can live 50 years or more, making correct husbandry essential from the beginning. This is an important factor, as these pets may need to be willed to other people if they outlive you.

Housing

The ideal habitat depends on your tortoise's species and the environment it would naturally inhabit in the wild. Take time to learn about your tortoise's native climate and terrain and mimic it as closely as possible. The closer the enclosure matches natural conditions, the healthier your tortoise will be.

Enclosure Size

Provide the largest enclosure possible.

  • Minimum guideline: 6 times the tortoise's length in both width and length
  • Example: a 6-inch tortoise requires at least a 3 ft × 3 ft enclosure

Appropriate enclosure options include:

  • Large plastic storage tubs (excellent for small tortoises)
  • Glass aquariums
  • Children's wading pools
  • Custom wooden enclosures

Plastic tubs are inexpensive, easy to clean, and safe, especially for young tortoises.

Substrate

Recommended options:

  • Newspaper (excellent, inexpensive, and easy to replace daily)
  • Artificial grass or "Astroturf"
  • Alfalfa (rabbit) pellets

Use caution with:

  • Bark mulch
  • Potting soil
  • Sphagnum moss

These materials can retain moisture and may become moldy if not managed carefully.

Never use:

  • Sand
  • Cat litter
  • Corn cob
  • Walnut shells

Some tortoises ingest these substrates, leading to gastrointestinal impaction, which can be life-threatening.

Remove soiled substrate daily and replace all substrate at least once weekly. Overly damp or soggy environments predispose tortoises to shell rot, skin infections, and respiratory disease.

Shelter and Security

All tortoises require shelter to feel secure and avoid chronic stress.

Appropriate shelters include:

  • Wooden hide boxes
  • Half logs
  • Clay flower pots placed on their sides and partially buried
  • Wood box enclosures

Water Quality

Clean water must be available at all times.

  • Use a shallow water dish
  • The tortoise should be able to drink by tipping its head down
  • The water depth should be less than shell height
  • Bury shallow dishes so the rim sits just above substrate level, or place very shallow dishes on top of the substrate

Change water daily and clean containers frequently.

Temperature

Providing the optimal temperature range for thermoregulation is critical for tortoise health. Failure to provide adequate heat is a major contributor to disease in captive tortoises. Tortoises cannot regulate their body temperature internally and rely entirely on their environment.

Temperature gradient

  • Basking area: approximately 95°F
  • Warm floor area: up to 85°F
  • Cool side: no supplemental heat

Use:

  • A heat lamp placed at one end of the enclosure
  • A heating pad under three-quarters of the enclosure floor, leaving the remaining quarter unheated

Measure temperatures at floor level on the warm side, at “tortoise height” at the basking area, and at the cool end of the enclosure.

Monitor temperatures at least twice daily. Heating pads should never overheat — use thermostats or temperature alarms for safety. Turn off heat lamps at night to simulate natural temperature drops.

Lighting

All tortoises require UVA and UVB lighting to synthesize vitamin D and properly absorb calcium.

  • Provide 10–14 hours of light daily
  • Never leave white lights on 24 hours a day
  • Ensure bulbs produce UVB, not just UVA

UV light is invisible, and bulbs stop producing UV long before they burn out.

  • Replace UV bulbs every 6 months
  • Date bulbs at installation

Without adequate UVB, tortoises develop metabolic bone disease, leading to fractures and deformities.

You can learn more about UVB Light here.

Soaking

Soaking is essential for hydration and urinary health.

  • Weekly soaking: 30–60 minutes in shallow, warm water
  • Tortoises fed dry commercial pellets: daily soaking
  • Species from humid regions (red-footed, yellow-footed): soak at least weekly
  • Hatchlings, sick tortoises, and rescues: daily soaking
  • Dehydrated tortoises passing white, gritty urates may benefit from twice-daily soaks

Water depth should never exceed shell height.

Feeding

All tortoises are strict herbivores. Only feed items you would eat yourself. Wash all foods thoroughly.

Diet Composition

80–90% fresh leafy greens and grasses
10–20% vegetables
5% or less fruit — not required; optional, very limited treats only

Supplements

Calcium carbonate: 2–3 times weekly (approximately 1% of food weight)
Vitamin/mineral supplement with vitamin D3: every 1–2 weeks
Avoid over-supplementation

Recommended Greens

Romaine, red or green leaf lettuce, butter lettuce
Kale, collards, watercress, escarole
Mustard greens, dandelion greens, parsley
Bok choy, turnip greens

Vegetables

Cabbage, Napa cabbage, bell peppers
Carrots, squash, Brussels sprouts, peas
Sweet potato, corn, cauliflower, broccoli
Lima beans, green or yellow wax beans, bean sprouts, radish

Flowers

Edible, pesticide-free flowers may be offered:
Hibiscus (flowers and leaves)
Nasturtium
Rose petals
Violets
Geraniums

Fruits

Apples, pears, peaches, plums
Grapes, raisins
Melons, strawberries, raspberries
Bananas, mango, kiwi, papaya

Important Dietary Warnings

Excess broccoli, kale, cabbage, cauliflower, and bok choy can cause thyroid suppression
Spinach, rhubarb, beets, and chard bind calcium and may cause gout
Variety is essential
Start offering all different types of vegetables early on to encourage good nutrition in juveniles

Common Medical Problems

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
Caused by inadequate UVB or calcium. Leads to fractures and deformities.

Shell Rot
Associated with damp environments. Soft or foul-smelling shell areas require immediate veterinary care.

Hypovitaminosis A
Prevented with proper supplementation. Swollen or closed eyes require veterinary evaluation.

Respiratory Infections
Signs include nasal discharge, open-mouth breathing, or mucus. Early treatment improves outcomes.

Hibernation

Hibernation is natural and beneficial for some tortoise species, but not all species hibernate.

Species that commonly hibernate:

  • Russian tortoises
  • Greek (spur-thigh) tortoises
  • Marginated tortoises
  • Desert tortoises

Before hibernation:

  • Schedule a veterinary exam 4–6 weeks in advance
  • Typically late August or early September
  • Correct health issues prior to hibernation

Your veterinarian will guide you on safe hibernation methods and monitoring.

Exercise

Tortoises love to travel. Supervised time outside of the enclosure is critical for environmental enrichment and exercise. You can also take them outside on days above 70°F. Stay close to them to avoid predators and keep them from straying away. Tortoises should have exercise for at least an hour daily.

Salmonella

All reptiles may carry salmonella, even when healthy.

  • Always wash hands after handling
  • Supervise children closely
  • Immunocompromised individuals are at higher risk

Preventative Care

We recommend the following care:

  • Juveniles: twice-yearly exams
  • Adults: yearly exams
  • Twice-yearly fecal exams
  • Bloodwork to assess calcium and phosphorus ratios

Exams include evaluation of Eyes, ears, nose, mouth, and beak. Shell, limbs, and cloaca. They also check the body condition and weight.

Reptile medicine continues to evolve, and regular exams ensure your tortoise benefits from the most current care recommendations.

Make An Appointment

Or give us a call at (603) 882-0494!